Wednesday
September 1, 1999
2:00p-5:00p
South Shore
-hrr-
Avg wave face
4-5 feet
Sets wave face
5-7 feet, some lil bigger
Clear skies; Gale force
offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 3/1 (Avg)
(Neal,
Makani, Neal checked Maili, windsurfer)
Thursday
September 2, 1999
5:30p-7:40p
South Shore
-ll-
Avg wave face
4-5 feet
Sets wave face
5-7 feet, some lil bigger
Clear skies; Moderate
offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 3/1 (Avg)
(Lances
boat, david, 2 guys paddled out, blew best wave, tow in surfer)
Sunday
September 5, 1999
9:00a-11:00a
South East Shore
-dhl-
Avg wave face
3-4 feet
Sets wave face
4-6 feet
Clear skies; Moderate
side-offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/3 (Avg)
(Leashless,
high tide, good session)
Tuesday
September 7, 1999
2:30-5:15p
South West Shore
-sl-
Avg wave face 5-6
feet
Sets wave face
6-9 feet, few lil bigger
Clear skies; Moderate
side-offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 2/2 (Avg)
(Neal,
hoot barrel, snap behind longboarder)
Wednesday
September 8, 1999
6:00a-7:45a
South Shore
-kai-
Avg wave face 3-4
feet
Sets wave face
4-5 feet, few lil bigger
Clear skies; Very light
offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/8 (Avg)
(Greg)
Saturday
September 11, 1999
6::00a-8:40a
South East Shore
-dhl-
Avg wave face
3-4 feet
Sets wave face
4-5 feet, a few lil bigger
Clear skies; Calm &
glassy, turning to moderate side-offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/5 (Avg)
(Neal,
Jerry, Jimmy, Cameron)
Sunday
September 12, 1999
7:00a-8:30a
South East Shore
-dhl-
Avg wave face
2-3 feet
Sets wave face
3 feet
Cloudy; Moderate side-offshore
winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/4 (Avg)
(Leashless,
swim once, crap surf)
Wednesday
September 15, 1999
2:15p-4:45p
South East Shore
-dhl-
Avg wave face
2-3 feet
Sets wave face
2-3 feet
Clear skies; Moderate-strong
side-offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 3/0
Hey Boys & Girls
Neal & I surfed with
the man under the hat (ref: Cam's AS crew page), Rod Rogers on Wednesday.
He's in town on
business and the three
of us managed to hook up for a quick afternoon session.
The waves were tiny and I was outnumbered 2:1 by prone surfers! :-)
Anyway, it was just the
three of us out. . . and I think we had fun with what little surf was available.
Sunny, warm
water and moderate side-offshore
winds, so can't complain too much, I suppose. Rod is a way cool surf brother
and
proud dad- I was stoked
to share our lineup with him.
Join us again soon, Rod. . Hope there's some surf on your next visit!
'loha,
Bud
Saturday
September 18, 1999
6:00a-8:40a
South East Shore
-dhl-
Avg wave face
2-3 feet
Sets wave face
3-4 feet
Clear skies; Moderate
side-offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 2/4 (Avg)
(leashless,
swam 2x, Neal, longboarder dropped in)
Monday
September 20, 1999
1:45p-4:30p
Laniakea, North Shore
Avg wave face 6-8 feet
Sets wave face 10-12
feet, occasional bigger
Clear skies; Moderate
offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/8 (Avg)
North Shore winter starts with a respectable bang. . . and none too soon, imo! None of our regular crew could hook up, so I hit a solo session after lunch. Mucho butterflies as I got my first glimpse of the coastline awash in whitewater.
For me, one afternoon in solid double-o Laniakea in outdid the entire summer, by far.
Parking lot crowd was
light, but traffic came to a near standstill from everyone slowing to gawk
at the surf. Decided to attempt a paddle through Holtons and Laniakea lefts
even though they were connecting (it's faster, if you make without getting
pounded) and squeaked by. . . No one was taking off from the middle, everyone
was hanging on the ends. The swell had too much of a westerly hook so only
a few of the biggest sets were makeable from the middle, and it was fully
unmakeable from the point.
That meant all of the other 12-15 surfers were hanging on the end, nabbing
easy shoulders that jacked into some excellent walls across the inside
section. It also meant that for nearly 2 hours I had the pick of whatever
I thought might be a makeable macker from the middle.
My first wave of the session
was a beaut of a double-o wall that stood up as far as i could see. I cocked
my board, took one stroke as the lip pitched next to me. . . my stick
hit mid face with my feet planted firmly on it. About 25 yards of the section
ahead was getting ready to throw, so with speed to spare, I stretched the
bottom turn as far as I could and pulled in under the hook. I knew it was
hopeless coming off the bottom, but went for it anyway. Plenty of standing
room but I
crouched slightly and
moved well forward on the board for optimum trim speed on a high line.
I flew through two heavy sections; realizing that I had automatically began
pumping to try to keep up with the lip falling outside my tunnel vision.
Finally, the lip got away from me and my board began to float out of control
as the foam came up from below. Covered for probably 4-5 seconds and then
fully pounded at the end, but when I hit the surface and pulled my board
back from the soup, I couldn't help but let out a "yeeeeehhaww". . . first
wave of winter '99!
Good surfing to you,
Bud
Saturday
September 25, 1999
8:00a-10:30a
Laniakea, North Shore
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 4-5 feet
Clear skies; Very light
offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/5 (Avg)
My new stick had been in my possession for a day & a half and I was dying to get wet with it. Shaper said that it had been done for over a week. . . when he tracked it down, he found that after glassing and such, someone at Fiberglass Works had mistakenly packed it in bubble wrap and put it in the "To Japan" section. Well, at least I have a new board that's been cured for once.
Needed to make a couple last minute purchases so I gritted my teeth and braved a mall surf shop on a Friday night. Knew exactly what I wanted -traction pad, wax and a leash- so I was in and out with minimal irritation from perky saleskids who were soooo happy to see me and trying real hard to help me find more cooool stuff.
Back home I set my perfectly good 6'4" from March into back up status, along with the leash I had bought back then. Same O&E leash as I got that night, but after 7 months it's a foot and a half longer and about half as thick. The traction pad "instructions" said to let 24 hours pass before surfing. . . but I have never had any problems surfing it even just a few hours from application. Had to carefully cut some notches in the pads to accommodate the Excel fins system plugs, though.
Sponge was unable to surf on Saturday so it was just me and fellow surfbud Makani M. for a mid morning run to the country. Small NW was dribbling through, waist to shoulder high rights and lefts with just enough uumph to get vertical and lay out a roundhouse or three. As usual Makani had no trouble executing said verticals and roundhouses, surfing leashless too. . . .
Clear skies, crystal clear water, ultralight winds- and the small crowd was way mellow. Many turtles in the lineup too. We had a fun sesh and lots of waves before it dropped off to almost nothing around 9:45; Waited and waited and waited, and just as I decided to paddle in, a waist high zipper finally came through for me.
My new stick gets 2 thumbs up, way up. Can't wait for some real surf.
Good surfing to you,
Bud
Sunday
September 26, 1999
2:00p-4:45p
East Shore
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 4-5 feet
Clear skies; Light onshore
winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/10 (Avg)
Nothing happening surfwise so after having more than a few beers with some old friends till very late Saturday night; Sunday morning I slept off the closest I've had to a hangover in a few years.
Figured the crew had already surfed by the time I got up so I laid around for a while. Felt weird to do "nothing" for a couple hours and finally had to get going. Big sloppy breakfast and a gallon of cold water and I was out the door, slick new stick in hand (of course it was almost noon by then).
Headed over the H-3 for some windward side sandbar tradeslop and got exactly what I expected. Except for the crowd. The mixed up surf was filled with several dozen people on surfboards and bodyboards, 99% of them completely clueless, but having fun.
Managed to keep from getting hit and successfully avoided numerous bodies on every wave. So many that I had to turn away from many bashable sections and straighten out from a few small, tubeable walls.
Still, a fun, laid back afternoon session with a new board that is shaping up to be a winner.
'loha,
Bud
Wednesday
September 29, 1999
4:30p-6:45p
South East Shore
-dhl-
Avg wave face
3 feet
Sets wave face
4-5 feet
Clear skies; Moderate-strong
side-offshore winds
Crew
to Crowd 1/8
Friends Hiram & "bones" happened to pull up to the cliff same time as I did and we trotted down the path to the beach together. Surprisingly crowded in the lineup this evening. I struggled to complete a decent manuver in the choppy, sloppy & weak surf; Lucky I decided to wear a leash 'cause I was falling fairly regularly. A few of the sets approached head high but they were inconsistent. By the time it was getting real dark the surf seemed to die completely.