Why moan?

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HMARK
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Why moan?

Postby HMARK » Sun Jul 02, 2006 6:17 pm

Not intending to offend anyone, but nevertheless I probably will.

Why moan about the surf we have?

We got some, and no it isnt North shore charging, or even North Shore semi-good, hell even I say it sucks for the past few days, but why complain?

And for what it is worth, why have we as surfers created such a rift between the vehicles we ride? Is it really that big a deal? Really? Maybe it is. Sure the noobs and the clueless get in the way 90% of the time, and even create hazards, but we all were there at some point, right? Somehow, I doubt the first chargers were stroking out into pristine maxing glassy perfection; on lightweight potato chips. We have evolved the sport into a great earth shattering experience. And a lot of people want to feel the stoke.

Isnt there room for some stoke for all?

In educating the noobs and patience with the learning curve of some (maybe even dealing with ignorance in a brain using way, rather than the neanderthal one) the feelings of complete utter stokage will be greater for us all.

Maybe not.

Yeah, the South shore hasnt put out like a learned whore on the first date, but it still something For meself, it hasnt been all that bad, really, has it? Maybe I am just a low standards kine of fool, but its been OK, to better than OK. Not (of course) North shore winter time quality, but good to good(er) on occasion.

Yeah, country is the mecca for this island. As it should be, but winter comes around once a year, and when ya got a itch to scratch, you do what ya can, I guess.

Just happy to get wet, rambling along...

Have a safe 4th, gangy.
~ God created surfboards so the truly gifted would not rule the world ~

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Postby Rocky Rockbottom » Sun Jul 02, 2006 9:46 pm

Good post. We should all be happy with what we're blessed with. Living with what we have and adapting to get what we need and want is part of life. If the waves aren't to your liking then go shag your misses or mister in some of your cases, get drunk, or do something else that floats your boat. Or you could go out and get a longboard.
I listen to classical music because violins and shit are supposed to make you smarter

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Bud
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Postby Bud » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:41 am

Spoiled rotten whiner here. :oops:

I want my cake and eat too! :P

It's all mine, I was here before you :lol:

I'm sure if it was overhead an barreling everyday I'd find something to complain about!

Paradox - lack of solid surf means that people can't improve in it. If it WAS big and barreling everyday, then the noobs could only get better, faster. That would mean more legit competetion for us old and bitter long time surfers remembering the 'uncrowded old days waaayyy back when'

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Postby surfingcroatan » Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:42 am

All you West Coasters and Hawaiians should feel bless. Because if you lived where I live (Virginia Beach), you'd only surf maybe 5 times a year. For those who live in Hawaii, you're lucky. Because you can usually just drive for a little ways and find good surf if its not good at your home break. For us on the East Coast and Gulf Coast, if there's not any good surf at our home break, it's not going to change much if we dive for a couple hours North or South. Generally (on the East and Gulf coast), if its crap at one spot, it's crap at all others. Also in VB, there is only TWO city block wide spots that is legal to surf at any point in time. So I have to deal with every single surfer in the Southeast area in Virginia, along with all the tourists, confined to two city blocks of surf (and the surf in summer is mostly flat, rarely any ridable surf, combined with mass polution). So feel blessed my fellow surfers, because where I live, we can only dream of surf half as good as the stuff you get constantly.
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Postby Haoleboy » Mon Jul 03, 2006 8:31 am

2 summers back I was out with a guy from Florida, and he was telling me..."the worst day out here is better than 95% of the days back East.

His brothers and he had come out with their mum for a vacation, and at the end told her they weren't leaving. They all got jobs, enrolled in High School, lived in one room and surfed every day.

Then they got girlfriends and don't surf that much anymore..... :roll: :D
Owoooooooo!!

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HMARK
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Postby HMARK » Mon Jul 03, 2006 10:00 am

Bud wrote:Spoiled rotten whiner here. :oops:

I want my cake and eat too! :P

It's all mine, I was here before you :lol:

I'm sure if it was overhead an barreling everyday I'd find something to complain about!

Paradox - lack of solid surf means that people can't improve in it. If it WAS big and barreling everyday, then the noobs could only get better, faster. That would mean more legit competetion for us old and bitter long time surfers remembering the 'uncrowded old days waaayyy back when'


I agree too, that paradox is what creates a lot of friction as well, we who know the breaks, the etiquette, or our own limits (and are willing to push 'em or be restricted by 'em) need less legit competition to feel that original feeling of stoke, but you gotta admit, it is nice to see the noobs who are willing to pay dues to become regs as well.

Believe me, you arent the only one who would find shitski to complain about as well, sometimes it seems like even perfection isnt good enuf, if my mood sucks.

Bet it was a stoker to see Bird again - he sure did some advanced surfing back in the "good ol' days". How is he doing? Still surfs or what?
~ God created surfboards so the truly gifted would not rule the world ~

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surfer9joe
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Postby surfer9joe » Mon Jul 03, 2006 10:24 am

Its true, I am sooo spoiled it's crazy. All winter long OH uncrowded juice has jaded me, I literally can't get it up to surf town anymore. Competing with little boogers for waist high drives me up a wall. Noobs dont bother me, its people in general, all clustered together on one little peak.
I need personal space, if the wave requires sitting elbow to elbow with someone i dont know, that sucks. I keep thinking of the sessions we have alone...:)

Actually, I have been really depressed and moody lately with the lack of surf(in country). Havent had the time to journey to sandy's, that would cure me I think....
Wa wa wa wa , sorry, cant help it!
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Bud
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Postby Bud » Mon Jul 03, 2006 10:30 am

Paddling out in the country I think I've mentioned this to Neal every year for the past umpteen seasons-

"These 'irritating' head high waves we're ducking to get past, the ones we hardly notice on the way to surf the outside .... we would kill for these things during the summer!"

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HMARK
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Postby HMARK » Mon Jul 03, 2006 11:14 am

But true as well is those sessions that you when question even going out, and found it to be -

better than it looks!

I love those surprises!
~ God created surfboards so the truly gifted would not rule the world ~

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driftfast180
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Postby driftfast180 » Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:44 am

As mentioned before ya should really enjoy what ya got. Better to surf slop then no surf at all. (Flatspells prohibit any surfin...im a floridian of course)

then again when I came back from 2 weeks of perfect double overhead barells in costa rica I was so depressed coming back to town that for months I didnt go out unless it was head high so I totally understand where ya are coming from

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surfer9joe
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Postby surfer9joe » Wed Jul 05, 2006 6:37 pm

I think thisd sums it up best, for us whiners: ""Soul surfing to me is an elusive state of mind focusing on the basic reason why you surf. The challenge is to get that state of mind in any crowded situation, any waves, any day of the year, with anybody in the water. Its a state of mind and a feeling that comes from that state of mind." Tony Ray quote from soulsurfing.com
Why Wouldn't Ya?

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HMARK
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Postby HMARK » Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:14 pm

S9J, that is the nail on the head!

Thanks.
~ God created surfboards so the truly gifted would not rule the world ~

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driftfast180
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Postby driftfast180 » Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:29 pm

Exactly, thats one of the reasons I stopped surfin comps. I was so focused I was gettin stressed over bs and cursin all the time. Well now I quit the comps and am havin the best sessions ever

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neosponge
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Postby neosponge » Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:29 pm

Bud wrote:Paddling out in the country I think I've mentioned this to Neal every year for the past umpteen seasons-

"These 'irritating' head high waves we're ducking to get past, the ones we hardly notice on the way to surf the outside .... we would kill for these things during the summer!"


Yup yup.


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