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This website is my place on the 'net to share our surfing experiences with friends and anyone who might be interested. I update the site weekly, with at least a few notes about each of my surf sessions. I usually take a few pictures in the surf with a disposable waterproof camera or from shore with my digital still or digital camcorder. Obviously, we're not out to win any awards, just stoked to share our escapades in the surf with like-minded people. Unless otherwise noted, I provide and maintain all the content here. If you ask "why?" - I'd guess that you're not a surfer. Unless noted, everything is original, nothing "borrowed" - I hope you enjoy it. - Bud
I was turned on to disposable water proof cameras in 1998 and since then, I always pack one when get my gear together for a session. Taking water shots and surfing at the same time can be tricky and we do not let it interfere with our surf time. My respect goes out to "real" water photogs. . . Being surfers first and (clearly) not serious photographers, we are always torn between the desire to record our sessions, and the desire to ride and enjoy the surf to the fullest. Surfers will understand why our pictures may not always depict the best surf: When the surf is HAPPENING you want to SURF, not take pictures. Plus, if the surf is heavy, taking pictures in the impact zone is tough. The cameras are very limited, too. You have to be close to get a decent shot. The best surf spots for this have a well-defined take off and (preferably) a well defined channel. Most of the pictures don't come out very well, either. In spite of all the hassles, it can be a blast. And that first look at "just developed" pictures of yourself, well . . .
Being able to take pictures without compromising my time in
is the #1 reason I do it. The obvious limitations of the camera are
but they are extremely light, very durable and cheap. I've used
constantly for three years, in tiny to 3xoh surf - - lost a bunch of
but never had one leak. It fits in my pocket; I've gotten so used
to the plastic box on my thigh that it feels weird when I don't have
with me in the surf. They are (almost) idiot proof. And once in a while
you snap a cool shot or three. If you're lucky as I am, you have
that are stoked to take pictures of you too. If you want amateur water
pics & the waves aren't too heavy. . .with a disposable you can
and take pics without interrupting a surf session. If you're trunking
it's way easy. While paddling back out after a wave, pull it out of
side pocket & hold the rubber strap with your teeth to be ready for
one of your surfbuds or a good wave shot. Biggest problem is that
you have to be pretty close to get a decent shot. Fuji
are light enough that it's
I can't say enough about how glad I am that, for the past 18 months or so [since May 1998], I started keeping a simple record of all my surf sessions. Even if you don't keep a detailed description, all it takes is a few key words to trigger the flood of details you would not have remembered otherwise. That's when you realize how much you actually "forgot". Going back over written records of past sessions is like reliving the session = s-t-o-k-e. Having pictures, even crappy ones, enhances and verifies everything- like adding color & sound to black & white silent movies. . .
I have found that a pair of shorts with a big, velcro closure side pocket is the best way to carry the camera while surfing. The Fuji "QuickSnap" 35mm one time use camera (pre loaded with 800 speed film), is the best. The trigger & winder is better suited to taking pictures on the fly than the Kodak equivalent. I get them in two-packs at Sam's Club for less than $20. Each has 27 exposures.
I wrote a bit more on the topic on
It is a labor of love, but it is labor. I work hard (and at
my own expense)
to keep this site going. Please have the courtesy to ask
before using any of the images. If you have permission to use our
on your website, please save & upload the file(s) to your own
To place a link to Bud's Surfing Life/WaveLust.com on your website, use
this URL - http://www.wavelust.com
For obvious reasons, most of the surf spots go unnamed. Certain well known breaks are sometimes identified - Sunset, Pipeline, Velzyland, Rocky Point & Ala Moana Bowls, for example.
Please don't ask me to name or direct you to "secret spots."
If you're looking for mellow surf, the best time/place is summer
(approximately May-September) on the south shore. More info for
on Oahu here
When describing the surf we take on, I usually refer to the size by feet or "_x overhead" (2xoh = 2 times overhead, etc.), measured (my best guesstimate) from trough to crest (the wave face). The intent is to give an idea of the rideable portion of the average waves and biggest sets encountered.
I stopped using "Hawaiian
Scale" to avoid all the confusion it caused.
Learn to surf? Here's a few links and some info to get you
I do not receive compensation and I do not "endorse" any of the companies linked below. If you want your business listed here, let me know
Lessons/Camps/Schools North Shore Oahu
North Shore Eco-Surf Tours
Carol Philips Body Boarding
Haleiwa Surf &Sea (808) 627-0400
Tropical Rush (808) 637-8886
Surfboard Rental South Shore
Surfboard Rental West Side
Buy & sell used surfboards, local
In a nutshell, North Shore ("country") for the famous big winter surf and South Shore ("town") for typically smaller summer surf. For example - Pipeline, Sunset and Waimea are north shore breaks and Ala Moana and Queens (Waikiki) are south shore breaks.
In general, I consider May through September to be summer
and October through April to be winter. See a wave warning
Sorry to say that I have not surfed at any of the
(Hawaii, Maui, Kauai, Molokai etc.) so I cannot give any advice.
I've never vacationed here so I can't say how much a hotel room is or where the best/cheapest one might be found. I'm aware of backpacker places and hostels but I avoid "endorsing" anyplace I have not tried myself.
For the average Joe, it's expensive to live here. Last time
the median price for a single family home was about $360,000 and
was $160,000. Expect to pay at least $800-1200/month to rent a basic
2 bedroom apartment central/urban Oahu.